Table of Contents
The assembly instructions
I have downloaded all the files to the public terminal at the lab. They can be found on the Desktop in the reprap folder.
You should use acroread to open the manuals, otherwise the fancy 3D and videostuff will not work.
- Read the Build Manual
- There is a printed bill of materials on the lab pinboard. When you assemble, please cross the used parts off the list, so nothing goes missing :)
- Read the Build Manual
- Don't forget to document your progress
- Read the Build Manual
- Take photos and upload them
- Read the Build Manual
- Keep track of the used material in the BOM
- Log your progress
- And by the way: Don't forget to read the Build Manual
Stuff that has to be done and is not part of the build manuals:
- Disassemble the Z-Idler-Post next to the Z-Motor-Block, check the two moving M8 nuts in the Z-Idler for damage/wear and replace the damaged one (or both) with a new one (new ones)
- Check how much the Z-Idler-Post is bend at this step and correct this as well
- Perhaps straightening the other Z-Idler-Posts has to be done too
- Exchange the broken “10040” on the top end of the Diagonal between the Z-Motor-Block and the Top-Block-L above the electronics with a spare “10040”
- Check how many and what kinds of nuts/washer where lost/are missing and are still needed to complete the assembly, so 9R can get them
- Install the tool chain on a the public terminal in the lab
Here you can find the documentation of the building process
- Remove the foil of the acrylic parts on both sides at once, can be hard to find out if a part is still covered later on.
- Be especially careful when assembling the corner blocks. There are many ways to assemble them (incorrectly) with parts mirrored, flipped, etc.
- Shorten Extruder by 6mm (from 37,75mm to 31,75mm) for better performance with high temperature polymers like ABS
- stuff with paper to prevent filings clogging the opening
- Apply base layer of fire cement
- has to be flush with rim
- cement is quite dry, tends to crumble and rip.
- use screwdriver, cutter, fingers, pen etc. to get a proper surface
- Let first layer of cement dry for 12h
- Prepare heating wire
- wrap (ca. 3 turns) and crimp NiCr (heating) wire to 50mm 24SWG wire
- measure 4 Ohm (ca. 150-180mm) on NiCr wire (consider offset from resistance of multimeter cables)
- wrap and crimp other end, cut NiCr wire
- Cement will be ready for baking at ~1400 on 27.05.09
- After 12h drying at room temperature cement is solid
- Baking cement in e-oven for 10min at 200°C after preheating
Thoughts on speeding up baking procedure:
According to reprap.org it is possible to bake fire cement at 90°C for 1h to remove moisture, than raise the temperature to 100°C for another hour, than bake it another hour at 250°C. Using this process could speed up finishing the heater barrel drastically.
- While building the cement rings and wedge shaped “land” around the heater mounting plate, we also fix a little crack in the cement base
- Winded the NiCr-Wire following the instructions.
- Bend a grip of one of the clams so it can open wide enough to fit on the nozzle end of the heater barrel.
- Also do not forget to consider the offset of the used multimeter cables when checking the resistance!
- applying the cement with flat screwdriver and fingertips works best
- if the fresh cement does not want to stick to already baked cement, breathing on the baked cement helps
- Build 1-02 (Clamp Nut Holders) Easy
- Build 1-03 (Drive Shaft) You'll need two washers. Part 10050 is not symmetric.
- Build 1-04 (PTFE Modification) Pay attention when drilling as the drill gets pulled in.
- Build 1-05 (Pressure Bearings) Easy
- Build 1-06 (Conduit) Easy
- Build 1-07 (Stepper Wiring) Use a drill to twist the wires.
- Build 2-01 (Driver Plate) See the drawing for the correct sizes of the screws. The animation is two pages below.
- Build 3-01 (Drive Head) We had to file the parts to make them fit.
- Cemented the heater wire connectors and prepared the thermistor.
- Final cementing of the heater barrel
- Build 1-02 “Clamp Nut Holder” and finished Extruder assembly
- Follow steps 1-01 (Bottom Corner Block R) and 1-02 (Bottom Corner Block L)
- The part 10079 won't come out of the board. It seems like it was not cut deep enough. So are some more parts on this board.
- Issue with stuck parts resolved by cutting them out with electric jigsaw, (suboptimal, melts the acrylic)
- Build 1-06 without problems
- Build steps 1-04 (Top Corner Block R) and 1-05 (Top Corner Block L) follow the instruction, no problems
- Build 1-03 (Z-Motor Block). gear assembly didn't fit to stepper motor, filed a bit of the sprocket (& nut & motor axis), so the nut is more recessed. Still a tight fit.
- Build 1-08 (Bed Base), a little bit of filing was necessary to at two of the holes to fit the bolts
- Build 1-09 ( Diagonal Tie Base), 1-10 (Diagonal Side), 1-11 (Diagonal Side 12mm) without Problems
- Build 1-12 (Filament Reel)
- Build 2-01 (Z Idler Posts) by using the parts from 1-07. A bit tricky to keep the washers centered & position the springs correctly
- Build 2-02 (Bed Top). No Problems, bit of filing
- Sometime later you will notice that the front screw holding the microswitch is too long and gets in the way. We replaced it with a cut off nail. Also, part 10041 gets in the way with the microswitch assembly and may require a little bit of filing in the corner. You can easily do this when the carthesian bot assembly is finished.
- Build 2-02 (X Motor & Idler Plane). NP
- Build 2-05 (X-Rod & Belt Clamps). No Problem
- Build 3-01 (Base Frame). Let the 8mm rod protrude ~20mm on one side, then using the setting jigs from there was much easier.
- Check that all acrylic plates are parallel and don't bend.
- Build 4-01 (Verticals). Easy thanks to the feet. No problems with the grub screws.
- Build 5-01 (Z Idlers). Easy
- Build 6-01 (Top Frame). Easy
- Build 7-01 (Setting Top Frame). See 3-01
- Build 8-01 (Setting Verticals). Make sure you use the correct hole. It's marked A in the drawing.
- Build 9-01 (Diagonal Ties & Feet). The diagonals came out fine but take care of the horizontal distances.
- To get the propper distances, it is a good idea to work in “triangles”. For example check all distances in the triangle “BTTM Block L - BTTM Block R - TOP Block R”. When those are all correct, proceed to the next triangle. Mind that there are 4! triangles on each side of the Bot
- Build 10-01 (X Motor & Rails) Lots of washers to forget, but that was totally easy compared to the step before. 2xM2 12 Cheese Head needed, were not mentioned in the parts list for this step.
- Build 11-01 (Y Motor Bracket & Bearing) Take care not to fasten the wrong screws..
- Build 12-01 (Y Motor & Drive) Easy
- Build 13-01 (X Carriage) Refer to the drawing in the next step if you want to mount the fan on the carriage.
- Use the longer screws to mount the fan.
- Not all screws have washers!
- Build 14-01 (Bed Base) We moved the corners to the top and leveled it, by aligning the M3 screw heads with the M8 nuts.
- Build 15-01 (Top Bed) Easy
- Build 16-01 (X & Y belts) The length for the belts in the manual are wrong. Strip 10mm from each Y belt and use it for the X belt
- Build 17-01 (Electronics) We drilled holes into the top plate to fasten the clamps when the plate is mounted
- Build 1-14 Pas de probleme